Brakelights not working anymore

[10000words]

Hi all.

Due to short-circuiting my brakelights don’t work anymore
Mankat 1A1
I traced the problem back as far as i could: there is no power/signal on the Nato or 7 pole connector’s brake poles (#6)
All fuses seem to be OK, (fuse#91 and the rest is working), i can’t find anything else.
Back-Indicators L&R and backlights are working correctly, so not a real power problem....
Where to look next?

Suggestions anyone?




Some words from www. 10 000 Words.org

[ALu]

Hi Justin,

sorry that I can´t help with those modern vehicles. I´m sure somebody will come up with some suggestions.

Please post a short introduction of yourself, your truck and your plans. You can do that in english ...

Please use this sub-forum:

viewforum.php?f=24

[A N D R E A S]

It looks like your car gets the power for the backlights from the NATO connector and not via the normal wires. At the MAN KAT 1 there is a switch for activating the NATO connector. Wether it is the same at the MAN KAT 1 A1

[10000words]

A switch....hmmm...Where could that be....

I was thinking about maybe somewhere there is a second fuse-panel, other then the one on the passenger-site.
As there was a short-circuit, and also as my winch is not working anymore (no power), there might be something wrong there.
Or maybe its not related to each other,

But then again: the indicators and backlight are working fine, only those brakelights keep me worring.

reading a lot of books now just to find some answers.
If anyone knows about where to find the NATO-switch it would be appreciated.

Justin

[ALu]

How did the short circuiting happen? Maybe that could give you/us an idea where to look.

[A N D R E A S]

The Kat 1 panel has a switch "Anhängersteckdose Aus/Ein" at the right side of the picture.

[10000words]

Hi all,

The short-circuiting happened when I tried to rewire the backlights of the truck, finding out that the original 7 pole connector was not wired according to standards. Twice a fuse blew, but i refused it again.

Maybe someone has a pin-out of the NATO-connector and 7 pin connector on the back, so I can check which pole-numbers I really should use.
I used the picture below for connecting, but found out that it was not accurate at all. Wrong picture, or wrong wiring here perhaps....

https://www.google.com/search?q=7+polig ... 1WcRAwI2M:

[HähWieMetal]

Try the 24V connector... not 12V.

https://www.harbeck.de/wcms/Clients/147 ... 00x262.GIF

Feine Abend, Marco

[AndreasE]

The Kat 1 panel has a switch "Anhängersteckdose Aus/Ein" at the right side of the picture.

Andreas, hast du dein Armaturenbrett lackiert?
schaut so unüblich neu aus ....
LG, Andy

[A N D R E A S]

Wenn du genauer beobachtest, wirst du darauf kommen, daß das nur von Roland sein kann
Ist ein Bild hier aus dem Forum.

[10000words]

Danke ! It did confirm my findings, but still no brakelights....
Brakelight switch in front on the pedal is ok,
It seems there might be a fuse somewhere else....fuse in the fusebox is ok....driving me nuts allready

thanks though

Justin

Try the 24V connector... not 12V.

https://www.harbeck.de/wcms/Clients/147 ... 00x262.GIF

Feine Abend, Marco

[10000words]

thanks.
it's not that.

Justin

The Kat 1 panel has a switch "Anhängersteckdose Aus/Ein" at the right side of the picture.

Andreas, hast du dein Armaturenbrett lackiert?
schaut so unüblich neu aus ....
LG, Andy

[A N D R E A S]

Tip 1: Follow the electricity! Where in the line from battery to brakelight you find electricity and where not.
Tip 2: Maybe the harness for brake light at the light switch is disconnected or one part of the light switch is out of order

[Zentralgestirn]

Andreas,

Justin ha an A1, not our older model. So be sure if he has also this switch.

Your advice to follow the wiring is the right way to go if you have no circuit drawings.
Justin, if you don´t have a prototype i will strongly recommend you to get the circuit drawings for your truck. It will make this and following jobs in the future so much easier to you. every single wire has an ID number on it, this will make it easy to rout single wires. In junction boxes or on connectors the id can change. I guess the A1 has also check terminals to measure Voltage or continuity. The ID is the same like the wire after the switch or what ever plus an P in first place. P stands for Prüfanschluss or in english, test connector. I hope that will help you to find your failure.

Best wishes

Sebastian

[Andy]

Mal was ganz anderes,
wo bekommt man denn die Etikettendruckstreifen in schwarz mit weißer Schrift ?
Hätte schon mal recherchiert, aber nie etwas gefunden.

Gruß Andy

[HähWieMetal]

https://www.bueromarkt-ag.de/schriftbae ... hwarz.html

Nicht verwand oder verschwägert...

[HähWieMetal]

Back to topic,

did you check the connection-box in the frame, normaly every truck has one of these someware in the end of the frame.
Just follow the cable from the end to front. Often there is corrosion at the pins inside the box.

[10000words]

I checked nearly everything. I found out that I don’t have any break-signal on the nato or 7 pole connectors.
Next thing to check is the probe- connectors under the front-flap. They are all completely corroded, so that might be a issue.

And as there are more circuits not working anymore (Seilwinde/winch for instance, and no backlights at the panel (but lights like indicator, wandler,5-8gear light is working) ) it looks like it is a mass-issue, as several of those devices are connected with the same mass-point.

There is a nice list of “werkstatt with Kat experiance”, can you guys add some adresses in other countries? NL, B, PL ect.... would be nice.




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[Sandkater]

Try commerce trucks https://www.commerce-trucks.com/nl
They talk dutch as well

[10000words]

Finally.Apparently the switch relais was malfunctioning due to short circuiting.
Expensive little fellow....set me back €133,-

Thanks for all the help.


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